CHANEL Femme Cuillère, beauty beyond the thin. The ‘Kaiser of Fashion’ famously refuses to look back, but still, this season was a thorough homage to ’10s, ’20s and ’30s silhouettes—around the time when Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, the quintessential power woman of that time, founded the House of Chanel. Lagerfeld conceived of a spoon-shaped silhouette inspired by a 1926 sculpture by Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti titled “Spoon Woman”. CHANEL Bride millennial-approved ‘Glossier pink’. 17 year-old model and actress Lily-Rose Depp, daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, closed the défilée as the couture “bride”, arm in arm with Karl Lagerfeld, wearing a blush pink voluminous gown covered in ruffles.
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CHANEL Femme Cuillère beauty beyond the thin The Story of the Spring-Summer 2017 Haute Couture
CHANEL Femme Cuillère, beauty beyond the thin. Chanel défilées are always must-see events whether it be the Hotel Ritz, a melting iceberg, an airport or a faux atelier, and Chanel Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017 show was no different. For Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel, a great set is the perfect vehicle to conjure the mood of a collection, or surround an audience in another world entirely. For its spring 2017 couture catwalk show, held in the main hall of Paris's Grand Palais, Kaiser Karl opted for an Art Déco hall-of-mirrors set, a stripped back set reminiscent of Coco Chanel’s famed stairway at her 31 rue Cambon atelier. This magnificent mirrored circular runway gave attendees a 360 view of the clothing and formed the perfect backdrop for 66 ladylike looks collection that epitomises Karl Lagerfeld’s vision on what a power woman in the 21st century should look like. The white catwalk and seating paid homage to Syrie Maugham, a British interior designer of the same era, whose home was known for its mirrored party room and all-white interiors. The centrepiece of mirrored screens was another Maugham-inspired touch. Eight monumental glass vases of perfectly furled call lilies framed the decor as the models made their way around in silver leather stilettos or precious embroidered thigh boots. CHANEL’s Spoon Woman, beauty beyond the thin. ‘The Kaiser of Fashion’ famously refuses to look back, but still, this season was a thorough homage to ’10s, ’20s and ’30s silhouettes—around the time when Gabrielle Chanel, the quintessential power woman of her time, founded the House of Chanel. Lagerfeld conceived of a spoon-shaped silhouette inspired by a 1926 sculpture by Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti titled “Spoon Woman”. “The silhouette is very feminine, with a belt slighlty higher than the waiste (“More mid rib-cage,” the designer said.), structured shoulders, and a focus on the hips. The suits - one of which, with its pink hue and pillbox hat, clearly evoked Jackie Kennedy - follow the same line, some belted, others draped at the waist with a tulip skirt, softened with a lavaliere to create the trompe-l'oeil effect of a coat dress. Under shimmering tweed coats, pleated skirts and dresses in pales shades form a striking contrast. Almost every look was accessorized with a pearl anklet worn on the left leg...Karl loves an ankle accessory. “Pastel tones of beige, pink, yellow, green and blue, together with grays and whites, are combined with touches of silver, sequins, and shimmering colors for a fresh look”. Fashion commentators noted that many of the designs allowed for fuller hips, a curvy derriere, even a rounded middle - a welcome respite from recent fashions that flattered only the slimmest of women. Could it be that Karl, who once referred to singer Adele as 'a little too fat', has changed his mind about the curvy woman? Let’s wait and see.
CHANEL evening wear. “The season's evening wear is sumptuous, with sheaths and full-bodied dresses, tulle stoles; bustiers, and long skirts in precious, light-as-air fabrics that bring an touch of gaiety. Radzimir, duchesse satin, organza, taffetas, flocked and laminated lace, tulle, jacquard, and georgette are ornamented with precious embroidery and a feather trim. Waists are again cinched in, gracefully underlining the flow or volume of each garment, heightening the sensation of airy gaiety magnified by touches of silver, sheets of acetate, glittering sequins, and mirror embroidery.”
CHANEL, HAUTE COUTURE BRIDE
CHANEL Bride millennial-approved ‘Glossier pink’. Of course, as it customary with any Chanel couture show, it was the final look that had the most cachet - the coveted Chanel “bride”, who also accompanies Kaiser Karl for his final bow. Following her debut in December at the house's Métiers d'Art show, 17 year-old model and actress Lily-Rose Depp, daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, closed the défilée as the couture “bride”, arm in arm with Karl Lagerfeld, wearing a blush pink voluminous gown covered in ruffles.