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Chanel Métiers d’Art
 
Chanel Métiers D'Art 2015. Following previous estravaganzas in Mumbai, Edinburgh and Dallas, Karl Lagerfeld chose Salzburg to unveil the Chanel Métiers d’Art Paris‑Salzburg pre-fall collection 2015.  The yearly opulent annual fashion show celebrates the artisanal craftsmanship of Chanel's Paraffection 10  specialist ateliers including costume jeweler Desrues, feather dresser Lemarié, embroiderers Maison Lesage and Atelier Montex, shoemaker Massaro, milliner Maison Michel, and  Barrie cashmere woollen mills in Scotland. Exclusive screening of Reincarnation, a short musical film by Karl Lagerfeld starring Pharrell Williams as the liftboy, and Cara Delevingne as the legendary, and ill-fated, Empress Elisabeth of Austria.
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Chanel Métiers d’Art 2015
 
 


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CHANEL Métiers d’Art 2015

Karl Lagerfeld's Interview - Métiers d’Art 2014/15 Paris-Salzburg CHANEL show / Interview by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni

Honoring the Métiers d’Art. Following previous estravaganzas in Mumbai, Edinburgh and Dallas, Karl Lagerfeld chose Salzburg, the tiny Austrian city famed for being the birthplace of Mozart,  to unveil the Chanel Métiers d’Art Paris‑Salzburg pre-fall collection 2015. The yearly opulent annual fashion show celebrates the artisanal craftsmanship of Chanel's Paraffection 10  specialist ateliers including costume jeweler Desrues, feather dresser Lemarié, embroiderers Maison Lesage and Atelier Montex, shoemaker Massaro, milliner Maison Michel, and  Barrie cashmere woollen mills in Scotland.

Bruno Pavlovsky, who is Chanel's president of fashion, explained the importance of the brand's Métiers d'art shows. “Métiers d’Art is quite sophisticated, with quite sophisticated clothing,” he told FT  of the true value of the house’s purchase of the ateliers once so endangered by the decline of the couture industry. “ All these events are a way for Chanel to showcase the quality, creativity and sophistication of our collections and products. They allow us to feed the imagination around our collections and the brand.” 

King Karl, as usual, selects the location for each of his Métiers d'Art shows based on places that have a close connection to Chanel's mythology and the Maison's founder, Gabrielle Coco Chanel. The German designer   staged his latest Chanel show in the sumptuous Leopoldskron Castle, an 18th-century palace of the late Baroque style that sits in the shadow of the medieval Hohensalzburg Castle. Most notably, shortly after the palace's construction in 1736, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in Salzburg, where he lived until the age of 25, when he left for Vienna. He and Marie Antoinette reportedly met as children, when she was Archduchess of Austria, a mere decade before becoming Queen of France.

Leopoldskron Castle, Salzburg

The 2015 show drew inspiration from Austrian history, that of Empress Elisabeth "Sissi," who was admired in her time for her elegance and beauty, as well as traditional attire such as the lederhosen and dirndl which Karl Lagerfeld infused with modern luxury by using an elegant yet sporty color palette. The signature piece of the collection is the four-pocketed jacket inspired by the garments that Gabrielle Chanel would have seen elevator operators wear at the Salzburg's Mittersill hotel during her stays in Austria in the 1950s. ‘She took an element and made it hers,' said Karl Lagerfeld in the show notes that accompanied one of the most sumptuously located fashion shows in the history of fashion shows. “Sophisticated yet sporty, the collection was intentionally contemporary. Karl Lagerfeld explores Austrian style, showcasing its refinement through the savoir-faire of the Chanel ateliers. Embroidery, feathers and pleats are crafted with painstaking delicacy to give this collection a romantic edge. Tweed, leather and cashmere partnered with loden and felt, and these materials blended with satin, faille, taffeta and lace lend the collection a fresh, youthful vibe” wrote the Maison.


REINCARNATION
This last chapter in Chanel's mythology was a tale that came to life the night before the demi-couture pre-fall 2015 show at the exclusive screening of Reincarnation, a short musical film by Karl Lagerfeld starring Pharrell Williams as the liftboy, Cara Delevingne as the legendary, and ill-fated, Empress Elisabeth of Austria and Geraldine Chaplin as Coco Chanel.
"Sissi"(pronounced “Cee Cee”) she was called, "CC" Pharrell sang. Karl declared “It was time to show the origins of the Chanel jacket, inspired by the one worn by the lift attendant in a hotel near Salzburg in the 1950s (…) Reincarnation is the story of a lift attendant’s jacket being reincarnated as a timeless piece of women’s wear.

Reincarnation by Karl Lagerfeld starring Pharrell Williams as the liftboy, Cara Delevingne as Empress Elisabeth of Austria and Geraldine Chaplin as Coco Chanel. 

Chanel Paraffection artisan workshops

Desrues - ornamentation and buttons (established 1929, acquired by Chanel in 1984)
Michel - milliner (established 1936, acquired by Paraffection in 1996)
Lemarié - feathers and camellias (established 1880, acquired 1996)
Lesage - embroidery (established 1868, acquired 2002)
Massaro - shoemaker (established 1947, acquired 2002)
Goossens - gold and silversmith (established in the 1950s, acquired 2005)
Guillet - maker of fabric flowers (established 1869, acquired 2006)
Montex - embroidery (established 1939, acquired 2011)
Causse - glovemaker (established 1892, acquired 2012)
Barrie - a Scottish knitwear manufacturer (established in the 1870s, acquired 2012)

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